Hopping on the train and commuting for just an hour or so, you will find yourself in Auvers-sur-Oise, in the northwestern part of Paris. This little commune is nothing like Paris, without the glamour and extravagance of the city yet guarding its own serenity and spectacular scenery waiting for you to discover. The 19th century painters certainly discovered a lot there. Paul Cézanne, Camille Pissarro, Camille Corot etc. all lived and worked here (Vincent van Gogh too, who chose to end his life in this little village in 1890). Coming here, during summertime especially, will make you never want to go back to Paris.
WHAT MADE AUVERS-SUR-OISE SO SPECIAL THEN?
Why did lots of artists abandon Paris and choose this village at some point of their life? The picturesque town with well-preserved historic buildings certainly was one of the reasons. It was their source of inspiration for their Impressionist paintings, which required painting en plein air (outdoors) to capture the subtle differences of sunlight. Situated in this charming hamlet is the Église Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption d'Auvers-sur-Oise. It was built between 1137 and 1227 by the order of Philippe I. Its primitive Gothic style and harmony did make it an exemplary subject matter for the Impressionists who preferred outdoor scenes rather than still lifes and portraits.
But it wasn’t just the church that seduced them; the beauty of the whole town is non-negligible. White and red blossoms as well as green leaves ornamenting the façade of houses (which were constructed using blocks of stone), the limitless wheatfields, the tranquil mountain trails, the long and twisted pathways that lead to the mountain, they all add up to form the charming rural landscapes that characterise this relatively “unrenowned” village.
WHAT MAKES AUVERS-SUR-OISE SO SPECIAL NOW?
Following the Impressionist route
The footsteps of the Impressionist painters are certainly the focal point nowadays. That is why when you visit Auvers-sur-Oise, the Chemin des Peintres is a must-walk route. This is both a historical and cultural journey that allows you to relish the landscape heritage of the town and, at the same time, the works of the 19th century painters. Info panels can be found during the two-hour walk. Through them, you get to live in the memories of Cézanne, Henri Rousseau, Camille Pissarro’s etc and fathom what inspired them to live in this town. While visiting, traces of van Gogh are hard to miss. That’s because Auvers-sur-Oise is also where he chose to commit suicide.
Vincent van Gogh
It is said that at l’Auberge Ravoux Vincent van Gogh had his last breath. It is also where van Gogh lived in Auvers-sur-Oise during his last two months. The 7m2 attic room of his has remained unchanged ever since his death, which means you can see the decoration (not his paintings though) and the furniture like what they were in 1890. When you finish paying the painter's room a visit, it might just be the time to pay him a homage in his final resting place. The wheatfield is where van Gogh shot himself in the chest on 27 July. Originally, his brother Theo wanted Vincent to be buried in the Église Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption. He was rejected on the ground that Vincent committed suicide, which is forbidden in the eyes of Catholicism. Today, van Gogh lies, together with his dearest brother Theo, in the nearby cemetery. Their tombs are covered with ivy (planted by the son of Dr. Gachet) and sunflowers (the flowers that he loved so much) to symbolise the brotherhood and loyalty that they had for each other.
Vincent’s wheatfield is a beautiful place to paint and an even picturesque one to admire. Proximate to the cemetery, the wheatfield is the location van Gogh drew his Champ de blé aux corbeaux (Wheatfield with Crows). Though often claimed to be his last masterpiece, this painting actually is one of his last few ones. The sky covered with darkness, with crows flying on this vast and endless field, seems to convey a sense of loneliness and isolation of what the painter must have felt during his last few weeks.
If your stamina allows, Dr Gachet’s house is an unmissable stop as well in Auvers-sur-Oise. Both an art lover and painter, Dr. Gachet was the Impressionists’ preference whenever they didn’t feel well. That’s one of the reasons van Gogh chose Auvers-sur-Oise, to be close with him and his brother so as to better take care of himself. We often see Dr Gachet’s portrait in van Gogh artwork; his house and his garden are a sight too. The house is now a museum where you will get to look closely at his pharmaceutical objects that he used to heal his fellow painters at the time. Like Vincent’s room, the original décor of Dr. Gachet’s house has stayed the same and is now part of the village’s charm that convinces you to spend a day there during your next visit to Paris.
P.s. Live an Impressionist Day in the Musée d'Orsay :)